"To Bulli or not to Bulli..."

April 15, 2012

• Avante Garde
• Fun
• Eye-opening

• Food: An homage to the great Ferran Adrià and El Bulli.
• Decor: Low key, unobtrusive
• Service: Educated, if a bit quick
• Cost: $$$$$
• Wine / Cocktails: Spectacular

Overview:

Or - A rose by any other name...

I remember the weekend like it was yesterday. A hot summer night, in the city of Chicago. It was a perfect evening, both because my husband and I had gotten tickets to Next restaurant's Tour of Thailand; and it was the last dinner served at Ferran Adria's famed El Bulli. A twist of fate I simply could not chalk up to mere chance.

Neither was the chance we got to meet Dave Beran, in the kitchen after dinner. I asked some silly questions, and I'm sure looked like an idiot; but something really struck me that night. These guys aren't afraid of a challenge. They have big dreams, and they see the world a bit differently than your average Chicagoan. Than your average American, even.

Fast forward to a chilly, mid-February evening, months later. We managed to secure the elusive tickets. It was real, in an artificially surreal kind of way. Like I was watching myself from outside my body. Perplexing, to say the least; but not entirely unenjoyable.

The roses hung from the ceiling, suspended on fine, light wires. They faced downwards on each table, pointing to where your dinner show would be served. And, what a show it was.

The open was a slate plate with ice in a lime, and a tiny spoon with terragon. From the very first bite, all the way to the last - more than 6 hours later; this was the best food I have ever eaten. Now, I didn't love every single course- everyone's tastes are different, after all.

But, I'll go through the ones I'm still thinking and dreaming about, two months later.

Iberico ham sandwich - just meat on an airy, cracker-ey bread- but sublime happiness in three bites. I wished there were more of these, because it was the best I've ever tasted.

Carrot foam - above a coconut milk, in an angled crystal bowl. The bowl was almost as novel and fun as the foam! Its story is remarkable, as well. They only acquired 19 of them from a private collector, so they are constantly rewashing them. Chef Beran worries about chips and damage. I heart him even more...

Spheroid olive - This was a fun course for me, because I've always hated olives! It defied expectation and convention, and changed my mind entirely. I can and do love some olives now!

Cauliflower cous cous - Another fun plate for me, even though I still hate cauliflower. But, the artful presentation of such an earthy, low food was simply delightful. Tons of fun.

Shrimp suquet - Six ingredient dish that embodied the whole evening, quietly. It doesn't have to be complicated, but it has to be excellent. Those tiny shrimp were delectable. I wish I could eat that way more often.

Foie Gras panna cotta - I didn't love the foiesting from the Childhood menu, so I was delighted to realized how much the panna cotta changed my mind. Savory and sweet can live in harmony in one dessert, after all. Ha. I love being wrong.

Chocolate five ways - I know, I know it's cliche. If I could eat this plate for breakfast lunch and dinner, I would. But, I am normally a vanilla gal; so take it for what you will!

There was 29 courses, and it was an amazing, unforgettable show. The servers all chatted with me about the details, and I had many questions! I even got my Oct2011 Vogue signed by the chef and service staff. Inside, there was a great article about the closing of El Bulli, with great photos.

They were a bit hard to read, but I think it was Chef Dave Beran who wrote, "Legends never die." near his own signature.

Indeed, sir.

My fan girl crush just hit Ryan Gosling level.

Hey, girl.

Recommended Dishes:

Shrimp suquet, carrot foam, iberico ham sandwich

"Next - "Next vs elBulli" 2.4.12"

February 6, 2012

• Food: an hommage to Ferran Adria and elBulli
• Decor: Architextural but warm
• Service: Perfect, friendly, warm, precise.
• Cost: $$$$$
• Wine / Cocktails: NAP - Beverage Pairings Only

Overview:

Was very lucky to be invited to Next for their friends and family trial run of the new elBulli menu. Normally, I would not think of "reviewing" a restaurant, especially a constantly evolving concept like Next, until they have had sufficient time to practice the menu. I will make an exception here because it was simply amazing in its breadth, depth and creativity. Like any new restaurant (Next is effectively a "new" concept every three months or so) there were some things that will be tweaked as the menu progresses with respect to service, timing, plating and seasoning, but what they delivered on Saturday night, was stunning by any measure.

I never had the chance to go to elBulli, which is probably my single greatest culinary regret, so being able to experience Grant and Dave's hommage to Ferran Adria, which spanned many years, was a special opportunity for me. The menu consists of 29 courses and will take about 4 hours or so to experience. It was a good amount of food, but not overly indulgent and very well balanced between lightness and richness, savory and sweet (I am not a "sweet" fan so I am sensitive to this). Some dishes are just a single bite and other more composed and larger. I was definitely full, but I was not uncomfortably so.

Molecular gastronomy has a heavy hand in the production of many of these plates, but it isn't noticeable until you start thinking about things like warm jelly still holding its shape or hot aspic or a tempura dish that is both hot and cold in one bite. There is some serious technique being employed here by people who know what they are doing and doing it well. It is not gimmicky at all, whimsy makes some appearances, even some gustatory provocation, but the food is good, recognizable, and very satisfying. I had many favorites on this menu, but two days later, I am still thinking about the spherical olives, coca of avocado pear, anchovies and green onion, the cuttlefish and coconut ravioli with soy, ginger and mint as well as the trumpet mushroom carpaccio (with rabbit kidney). The wine parings are still in process of being finalized, but the cava, montsant and corbieres that were served with our menu were lovely foils for this exceedingly complex menu.

I cannot wait to return.

Recommended Dishes:

NAP - Fixed Tasting Menu Only

This Review has been recommended by 1 person

"#2 - Childhood v1 - 10/30/11"

February 1, 2012

• Trendy
• fun

• Food: Amazing, evocative
• Decor: Dark and inviting
• Service: Punchy with an immature wink
• Cost: $$$$
• Wine / Cocktails: Strong and sweet

Overview:

Haha, yes - I'm THAT girl.

The one who stole your Next tickets like a thief in the night.

I have no regrets. My first Childhood was amazing. My second was even better. Yep, you read that right. lol

The food was incredible, the service impeccable. By now, I was getting recognized for joking with the staff - which I loved!

PB&J bite in a box: sublime. Initially confusing, but ambrosia in one bite. Actually two, cuz I squirted the hot peanut butter concoction all over my hand. No silverware for this round!

Chicken noodle soup: in a comically large bowl, unless you are accounting for taste! In which case, it was perfect.

Fish & chips: One of the most fun plates! Themed girl and boy plates for myself and my husband, Jamie.

Mac & cheese: Divine. The Parmesan cream cube was my personal favorite.

Autumn scene salad: Came out smoking, which was tough for me, so I didn't eat a lot of it.

Hamburger: Sooo good. Think of deconstructed bun what you will. I think it was delicious.

Lunch box: The single most fun round. The apple brandy fruit leather and the truffled oreo being my two standouts. The fact that I got an Alice in Wonderland lunchbox with Gremlins thermos inside? Must not have been a coincidence, I purport...

Foiesting and donuts: A strange play on savory and sweet, I got one cider donut and two licks in on the beater. Yep, they served the foie gras frosting on a vintage style beater. And, it was MORE fun licking it off!

Sweet potato pie: Barely had room for it, but the two bites were bourbon caramel heaven.

Hot cocoa: If you weren't stuffed by now, they make sure of it. This is the best hot cocoa I've ever had, and as a Midwest gal - I used to drink it often!!!

I couldn't wait to go back after this round, because the next Next outing was for my 31st birthday - late December. Grin.

Recommended Dishes:

Truffled oreo and apple brandy fruit leather in the Lunch Box, chicken "noodle" soup, fish & chips

This Review has been recommended by 2 people

"My first Next experience - Tour of Thailand 8/30/11"

February 1, 2012

• Avante Garde
• Funny

• Food: Wonder-defying palette pleasures
• Decor: Clean & simple, refined
• Service: Personal, irreverant, fun
• Cost: $$$$
• Wine / Cocktails: Reserve wines paired brilliantly with the menu.

Overview:

I'll admit it, I caught the "cool kid" bug last summer - when Grant Achatz's newest restaurant was garnering a lot of press in the US.

I was intrigued by the very concept - food as an event?! It's genius, pure and simple; if executed flawlessly. And, at Next - it really is. Hands down, the best dinner of my year. (Until I went back for two rounds of Childhood, yeah... admit it. You're jealous. Ha.)

The Thai themed street food started off with a platter such as I have never had; but the flavors were strangely familiar - even though I've not been to Thailand, of the Pacific southwest yet! Steamed buns, crunchy prawn cake (was my personal favorite,) with a couple more bites. One was my husband's favorite, the shrimp ceviche on a mint leaf.

This is when dear husband and I look at each other and agree... Already it is worth the price of entry, both in time and money - which is no small sum. I spent probably 36 consecutive hours trying to score the ToT tix. I lucked into the Childhood release, and bought two rounds, like a smart kid!)

Each course comes out timed perfectly, even though it seems like a lot of food, or art to take in; I never felt rushed. The servers confounded me with ToT, but it was really more about my lack of Thai cuisine knowledge. I didn't know Tom Yum. But, I do now... hehe.

A few courses in, there was the most amazingly delicious catfish I've had in over 10 years; swimming in a sauce-pot of sweet caramel. I can't say as if I wasn't suspicious, because like a good little cheater - I'd googled the menu before we went. Yeah, so much for surprises; except I was still so surprised!

I, the Norwegian with an infamous sweet tooth - was TOO FULL for dessert. Oh sure, I sampled them both. One was dragonfruit with a rose companion; the other in a coconut shell and surprisingly delectable, considering I don't like fennel. And, it was in there. And, I wasn't offended. Haha...

After it was all over, the hostess offered to take us in for a tour of the kitchen. Where, my husband and I got to meet - swoon - Dave Beran. It was really the cap to our summer of amazing eats, and something I will never forget. Wish I woulda gotten a photo for my damn facebook stream... lol

Recommended Dishes:

Curry beef cheeks, Pork tom yum, catfish in caramel sauce

"A true experience!"

December 26, 2011

• Food:
• Decor:
• Service:
• Cost: $$$$
• Wine / Cocktails:

Overview:

We went to the Childhood menu at Next and it was an incredible experience. It was entertaining just to look around the room and watch people react as the different dishes, lunch boxes, etc. were brought to the table. The 10 courses were pretty good sized portions so I probably should not have ordered so many bites at Aviary. Of course the food was great but it was also a little like dinner theatre the way they presented each dish - very fun. I think they definitely accomplished the goal of taking you back to your childhood.

Recommended Dishes:

"Kiss me on the Beef Cheeks"

October 19, 2011

• Next

• Food: Thailand
• Decor: Modern
• Service: Amazing
• Cost: $$$$
• Wine / Cocktails: Over-priced

Overview:

For a restaurant that has had more hype than a certain NBA player moving to Miami, this Grant Achatz creation is doing a much better job of living up to it.

Don't get me wrong there was certainly a dish or two on the menu that was an 'air ball' for me but overall it was a slam-dunk. (I'll stop the corny puns now)

Next covers every last detail from the Thai newspaper place mat to the authentic Thai rap music. You have to remember that authenticity is their main goal, not being another Alenia so don't expect every course to be the most amazing thing you've ever had in your life.

I personally loved the Tom-Yum soup and Panang Beef Cheeks. The street food was good but you can find it elsewhere in Chicago. The cheeks were rich and fell apart with the touch of a spoon. The curry sauce was from an old recipe most likely stolen from a monk. The two were cooked separately and combined at service creating flavor memories I can still feel 2 weeks later. I've never had anything like the Thai Beef Cheeks and I'm not sure I ever will again... and that is the appeal of Next.

Con: The wine and alcohol pairings are maybe the most overpriced deal in town. I would much rather pay more for the ticket and less for the pairings. The non-alcoholic should just be included in the price as it was mostly juice and mixers.

Recommended Dishes:

Beef Cheeks and Soup

"Thailand"

September 7, 2011

• Food: Thai
• Decor:
• Service:
• Cost: $$$$
• Wine / Cocktails: Pairings

Overview:

My second visit to Next for Thailand was even better than the first, for Paris. Like, way better, and Paris was very solid. I was a bit apprehensive about the Thai concept for a high end, high priced meal, but it was extremely well executed. Bold, fresh and contrasting flavors prevail throughout the entire meal.

The starter platter was great, but the fermented sausage is the one I keep thinking about. A close second, the steamed bun with mushroom and green curry (makes wao bao seem like the ugly step child).

The 2nd course was Tom Yum soup. This is the best soup I have tasted in my life. I know there was pork belly in it, but beyond this it was simply pure decadance. I could eat this every day and be extremely happy.

The catfish was amazing, if you hadnt told me what it was, I'd have guessed black cod. Not sure how you make that happen. The carmel sauce was not overly sweet and added a richness that was a great balance to the fish.

Of the ending "sweet" items, the coconut was my favorite and quite cleverly plated.

We were one of the lucky ones to score tickets, but this required 4 computers and about an hour and a half of trying. I think this meal ended up being worth it, but something has to give on this reservation process!! I'll be back for the next concept, assuming I beat the odds on the reservations this time. Here's hoping.....

Recommended Dishes:

see review

"Deliciously Different"

August 12, 2011

• Delicious Cullinary Experience

• Food: Ingenious yet Delicious
• Decor:
• Service: Excellent - very friendly
• Cost: $$$$
• Wine / Cocktails: Get the Wine Pairings!

Overview:

It was the Thai theme when we went to Next. We had just missed the French food, which I was disappointed about as I'm not a huge Thai person, but the Thai food theme turned out to be a very pleasant surprise.

The ambiance is not what I had imagined, a bit brighter and closer seating than I had envisioned but still inviting. This place is all about the details, from the beginning with the street food served on a Thai newspaper, to the impeccable food presentation, to the menu having Thai and English.

In the first course, the fermented sausage was amazing, the second course had the hot and sour broth which was also good, with some spice to it. The Catfish course was absolutely amazing - you would have never known it was catfish, it was very dense and rich and perfectly prepared. They of course had rice and several sauces, which were all very interesting and fun to try.

The meal ended with each of us getting a coconut with corn, egg and licorice filling - sounds crazy, but I thought it was amazing and dragon fruit to end. The wine pairings enhanced the flavors, were very good and well worth it.

The service was excellent and very friendly and down to earth, refreshing for a restuarant of this caliber!

I can't wait to see what is next! :)

Recommended Dishes:

"Tour of Thailand!"

July 25, 2011

• pre-sale tickets

• Food: Thai
• Decor: sheek, sophisticated, sexy
• Service: EXCELLENT
• Cost: $$$$
• Wine / Cocktails: wine pairings

Overview:

We were lucky enough to score a table on Saturday night and it was AMAZING! We had some drinks to start at the bar next door (Aviary) and were seated around 10:30. The service was outstanding and every server was so knowledgeable and attentive, but not stuffy. The presentation of each course was gorgeous and the wine pairings were perfection.

The first course favorites were the roasted bananas, fermented sausage (yum) and the steamed bun. I wanted more!

My favorite course was the 2nd. The amazing, mouth watering pork belly hot and sour soup. The broth is poured over all the ingredients right at your table and it was truly the most delicious soup I have ever had. The flavor was a party in your mouth!

The next course is rice and a variety of sauces and our favorite was the salted duck egg. yum!

Next came the catfish in a caramel sauce. For those who do not like fish (myself) there is rice, veggies and then you pour the sauce over the rice. ridiculous.

Next was the curried beef cheek which has an amazing peanut/curry flavor and JUST enough spice. Time to clean your palate with some watermelon lemongrass.

The last 2 were desserts...the firt comes IN a coconut that you crack and the inside is scooped out and filled with corn, egg and licorice. That is followed up by half a dragon fruit, which was really interesting flavor.

Each course was paired with an outstanding cocktail and it really complimented the flavor of the dish.

I cannot wait to see what is "NEXT" and I will definitely be back! OUTSTANDING!

Recommended Dishes:

pre-fixe

This Review has been recommended by 1 person

"Totally. Worth. The. Effort."

June 24, 2011

• Food: paris 1906 based menu, French-inspired molecular gastronomy
• Decor: Sleek, tasteful, intimate, yet energetic
• Service: Impeccable. Attentive, quirky, funny, interesting, passionate, approachable, almost as if putting on a performance...
• Cost: $$$$
• Wine / Cocktails: Wine pairings were varied, unique, special, and truly complementary...

Overview:

To give some background, I actually hated this restaurant before ever seeing it. I was completely offended by the difficulty in obtaining tickets. I was unable to get a log-in on the website for weeks... only to find that tickets were NEVER available and after finally logging in, I realized that the site was utterly worthless and nothing more than a tease for me to refresh all day to no avail...

That said, I managed to score a 4-person table after incessantly harassing Next's email and social networking channels.

The experience was like nothing else I've ever been a part of... service was spectacular, in fact entertaining; it was surprisingly unpretentious, and the wine pairings (standard) were unique and truly enjoyable to complete the experience.

A personal note on the cost. The meal cost $100pp, plus $48pp for wine pairings. Period. Done and done. Our servers would not take tip, which is apparently built into the overall price, along with the tax. Therefore, we did not receive a bill. The ticket, as promised, enabled the complete experience. Want coffee or tea? Also part of the experience... (I still grumble at the ticket process, but after sitting through this heavenly gastronomic experience, admittedly, it's a small price to pay...)

Recommended Dishes:

There's no point in recommending dishes, because the meal is fixed and you should try EVERYTHING... but, my personal favorites were the quail egg topped with anchovy, the Louisiana snapping turtle based soup, and without question, the best dish was the duck!

"More duck please...."

June 13, 2011

• Food: French
• Decor:
• Service: Very good, amazing team effort
• Cost: $$$$
• Wine / Cocktails: pairings

Overview:

So the long awaited trip to Next finally arrived on Friday. 4 of us decided to grab drinks at Aviary first. From the moment we arrived, the service was amazing, no one missed a beat. We were ushered into Next (however not allowed to bring our remaining drinks) and the restaurant space is amazing, very well designed with a bustling kitchen and about as many employees as guests. Almost overwhelming at first.

The food was all over the board for me. We started with a tray of appetizers. The egg custard in the shell was amazing, as was the pork rillette. The foie and the stuffed leek we only ok. The quail egg w/ the anchovy just didnt sit well on my pallet with all the other items. Texturally it was very odd. The next course was the turtle consomme, very interesting, refreshing and was paired with a very unusual wine that was described as sherry-like, and on its own horrible, but with the soup, amazing. The sole didnt wow me, but it was very delicate and well executed. For the chicken course there was a poached chicken with cucumber that I just didnt enjoy, but there was another piece of flat chicken covered in a sauce that was AMAZINGLY good, I was looking for more....

And finally, we come to the pressed duck and Gratin de pomme. I have never in my life eaten duck this amazing, and this course could rank in the top 10 items I've ever eaten. I wanted more, badly. I am still thinking and talking about this duck. I wonder if I go back if we can just do 5 courses of it??

Salad followed, very tasty, and the desserts all very good.

The servers were all amazing, working very much together in a cohesive effort so that we were always attended to. The servers were professional, yet very laid back and showed plenty of personality. A nice balance.

I cant wait to see the next concept, they are on to something very good here. The only reason I havent chosen it for a "favorite" was my lack of enthusiasm across the board for the menu. I will definitely go back.

Recommended Dishes:

"In a word, incredible"

May 4, 2011

• Food:
• Decor:
• Service: Excellent!!
• Cost: $$$$
• Wine / Cocktails: Great wine pairings, amazing cocktails at Aviary

Overview:

Being fortunate enough to get invited to purchase the first round of tickets to Next, we were giddy to say the least. There was so much mystery: a password, logging into a secret website, trying for tables that were snatched up before we could check our calendars for availability. The whole concept is revolutionary. And so is the dining experience.

From the moment we entered the restaurant, we were blown away. The service is exceptional: thoughtful and incredibly attentive, without being the least bit pretentious. The ambiance is understated, elegant, and comfortable. And the food. Just... wow. To begin: the hors d'oeuvres are a delight, with the truffled egg being our favorite. The fois was amazing, the quail egg delicious, the pork rillette fantastic, and the mushroom duxelle a little pop of heaven. After all that decadence, the light turtle soup consomme with fresh vegetables was a welcome respite. The filet of sole with crawfish mousse was a visual delight, and the light buttery sauce had incredible depth of flavor. A seafood allergy meant one of our guests was treated to an amazing sunchoke soup with hazelnuts. The chicken with cucumber and salt pork was an unexpected combination that left us wanting more. The pressed duck is hands down, the star of the show, and quite possibly the best thing we've ever eaten. It comes with a side of amazing potato gratin that practically melts in your mouth. Salade Irma, composed of refreshing greens with asparagus, radish, and edible flower, was the perfect palate cleanser. Then, there are the dessert courses. Bombe Ceylan is an ice cream painted in cocoa powder, accompanied by marinated cherries and not one but two delicious sauces. Finally, the mignardises, our last bites of sweetness. The jellied sugar beets are unique, but the true standouts are the salted caramels.

As noted in the program given upon arrival, the menu at the Ritz would have been presented as a grand buffet. Here, some dishes (like the hors d'oeuvres and the duck) are served family-style, while others are plated individually. It all works incredibly well.

A few recommendations: Get the wine pairings. Not only are they pitch perfect in their selection for each course, they are ever-flowing as well. A true value for the price. Also, ask for a quick tour of the kitchen, it is fantastic to see the genius at work. Halfway through the meal, we requested a table next door at Aviary, and highly recommend this unique cocktail experience as well.

Next: Paris, 1906 - Escoffier at the Ritz is a once in a lifetime dining thrill. Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas have started a revolution, and we can't wait to see what's next.

Recommended Dishes:

Everything!

This Review has been recommended by 1 person

"Billet doux (a short love letter)"

May 1, 2011

• Admission by ticket.

• Food: Par excellence
• Decor: Sleek
• Service: Pièce de résistance (amazing)
• Cost: $$$$
• Wine / Cocktails: Sommeliers pair wines, no wine list.

Overview:

As tempting as it is, I will not delve into the “Next concept” here, as that information is readily available (and very well explained) elsewhere. This is all about the experience. With that said, I am honored and excited to be the first Mafioso to review Next (Paris 1906). As the title indicates, the following is more of a love letter than a "review." From the moment we entered Next until the doors (at The Aviary) closed behind us, the experience was an exercise in perfection. Perfection, as I use the word here, contemplates both its objective and subjective components.

Objectively, the food, the flavors, the plating, and the wine pairings were spot-on, flawless, and literally by the book (Escoffier's Le Guide Culinaire). The impeccable execution of Escoffier’s recipes and the gorgeous plates are precisely what one would expect from the juggernaut of a chef that is Grant Achatz and his uber-talented protégée David Beran. I have said before that you can taste it when there is love in the food. At Next, not only could I taste the love, I could taste respect, honor, and reverence for the “father of modern French cuisine.”

Subjectively, this is where it gets interesting... The experience we were given was exactly what we wanted, without knowing what we wanted. It sounds weird, but the closest thing I can compare it to is falling in love. We knew after the first course that we were totally smitten with Next, and the staff showed us that our feelings were reciprocated. (I won’t give away their secret, but they will know who you are when you walk in the door, to an uncanny degree, and I’m a nobody). As such, the experience is not one-size-fits-all, instead it is crafted to fit you (and like your mother told you, you are special). Every single person who visited our table (and there were about 12 of them) made it personal. Each was warm, engaging, and genuine, and made me feel like a pretty-pretty princess (my #1 criteria). At the same time, they sensed that we are laid-back and like to have fun, so the wine came a-flowing, the jokes got going, and the love kept growing. Hands down, best service ever.

Finally, please remember all things worth having are worth fighting for. Calmly repeat this mantra while you are furiously clicking "refresh" in an attempt to score tickets. It will happen, you will get in someday, and no matter the incarnation of Next, I am confident that the food will be amazing and that you will be made to feel like a pretty-pretty princess. J'aime après!

Recommended Dishes:

Tasting menu.